An evening of Loire reds, 8 October

We are closing the room to the usual service on Thursday 8 October and running one long table instead. Twenty-two seats, one sitting, seven o'clock for half past.

Six wines, all from the Loire, all red. Mostly cabernet franc — Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur-Champigny — with a Touraine gamay to start and something older at the end that I am not going to name yet in case the case does not arrive. Two of these are already on the by-the-glass list; four are not, and probably will not be again.

Five courses from Elin, built around the wine rather than the other way round. That is the unusual part for us. Normally the fish list decides the menu and I find something to drink with it. For this one we picked the bottles in July and the kitchen has spent August working out what to put next to them. There is a hogget dish that comes out somewhere near the middle and it is the reason the whole evening exists.

£85 a head, everything included. No service charge on top. If you have an allergy or you do not eat meat, tell us when you book and we will write you a parallel menu — there is enough on the Ebbor list in October to do that properly rather than apologetically.

Booking is by phone or email only, as ever. It is one table, so when it is full it is full, and last year's took about ten days to go.